|Build Your Own !|
This is simple battery case
mod. (also known as a puck)
You will find DIY mods like these on e-cig forums, .eg there's one on ECF which uses a smaller battery case which is quite good, but I decided to go for a bigger case for a better grip and extra battery for longer life and 'oomph'.
Battery mods replace the battery part of your e-cig.
The design is really simple. It's basically just this list ;
Battery holder. (size AA 14450 li-Ion protected batteries @ 3.6V or 3.7V)
Master Switch (optional)
Mods like these are easy to make because they use parts commonly found in electronic parts stores. And because you put the parts together, it's easy and low cost maintenance.
The easiest way to get an atty socket is to remove one from an old battery.
You will need an old batttery and an old atty. Instead of throwing them away, screw the atty to the battery and grip both ends with either pliers,spanners or two pieces of hollow pipe.
By slightly bending and rotating about the joint, you will be able to slowly pry the socket away from the battery.
Once you have the atty socket out, then you can remove the anode (the centre part) by pushing it out from below with a toothpick. Becareful not to damage the rubber separator ring.
Solder a peice of wire to the anode.
Solder a peice of wire to the outer shell near the bottom.
Re-assemble the anode back in it's shell.
If you don't want this trouble, then just order a bagfull of atty sockets from a supplier.
These days, the 510 format is the most popular and a safe bet. (The socket shown here is a 901.)
Drill The Hole
Drill and/or burrow a hole on the side of the batttery holder that will just fit the socket as shown below.
Fix the socket to the hole using 2-mix glue or hot-glue so that it will not move.
This is the weakest link of the whole construction. If the hole is not tight OR the glue/cement is not strong enough, then the socket will wobble, especially if you have a tall atty, a converter before the atty or a tall tank. The taller the tank, the more leverage will cause a 'lean' or 'wobble'. You should give this part of the project the most thought.
|A 3 cell AA batery box can
be bought at an electronic store (you will only use 2 of
They are fairly standard and only cost as low as US$1.
These boxes come with their own built-in master swich.
will have to re-arrange the contact plates to fit two
3.7v batteries in pararallel, that is the two +ve ends
should be touching each other. And the same for the other
This means you have the option to put in just one battery. Or two batteries for longer operation.
|Operating switches can
be bought from the electronic store. You can choose any
style you want. This white button one is a soft switch as
I prefer them to the hard-clicky-type ones.
It's up to you. Just be sure it fits in the box.
(Tip: Don't choose a switch too small, it may not be able to handle high current).
Make a slot/hole in the box for half the switch with a file and fix it in position with 2-mix-glue. or hot glue. Also make a slot/hole on the box-lid and some room for it to slide in shut.
( Switches that are under-rated tend to burn out quickly with use. The first thing you notice is that their internal resistance builds up making your battery run out faster and also poor vapour.)
|Wire up one end of the
atty socket (e.g centre pole) to the nearest battery
plate (red wire).
If there's not enough room to close the lid, you may have to recess (make a ditch) on the plastic side that holds the battery.
Wire up the other atty socket contact (e.g outer rim) to one end of the operating switch (black wire).
|You can barely see it in
this pic but the end of the master switch is threaded and
soldered to the other contact of the operating switch