Do you have a malfunctioning 601 pipe ready to throw away ? Chances are, the sensor is flooded with old juice and just needs a cleaning. Problem is, ithe 601 is not designed to be taken apart.
With brute force you can dismantle it, but difficult to re-assemble. Nevermind, the atty is not that good anyway. Why not just replace the whole atomiser and mouth piece?
|This mod is a simple replacement of the
601 atomiser with a 901 using the original 601 sensor switch and
||Here is a video of it's usage.|
Let's be honest, the DSE-601 is a cheap
and cheerful china e-pipe with the following low-points;
If you're about to throw it away, first try this mod. It will replace the atty to a 901 assuming the 601 sensor switch still works after cleaning it. And that the circuit regulator (built into the battery holder) is still working.
|First Take it Apart|
|You can actually pull out the main
barrel with a pair of pliers. The trick is to twist it to break the
glue. You will however get a dent on the barrel mouth because the
pliers are flat but hey, so what ?
||Be careful not to break the wires.|
|Inside the main barrel is a
sleeved vacuum sensor. Usually this is a decent sensor
||..unless of course it's drenched
in e-lliquid !!
You'll find the sensor starts working again after a cleaning and drying (also blow it out).
It even got rid of it's famous constant green flashing syndrome.
|Clear The Barrel and throw away the old atty|
|Connect a 901
|Get a 901 connector. (You can pull
off an old one from a faulty 901 battery,)
You will have to extend the wires with your own to make it comfortable.
|Make sure you pass the wires
through the barrel.
|Insulate any middle joints.|
|Seal the Barrel
|Position the 901 connector and
your seal up the barrel with DIY putty or glue.
This must be air-tight but you must not obstruct the air-flow to the switcher sensor.
|You can push in a paper clip
to make sure the hole and air-path doesn't get blocked by the
barrel is actually difficult to push all the way back in, which is
a good thing because it's a good air seal.
You don't need to push the barrel all the way back in, infact it may look better if it doesn't. And you'll want something to grip if you have to pull it out again for cleaning.
|The PM-69 mod is now my regular
It's just surpassed my box mod for consistency (probably due to it's built in regulator).
|Here's a youtube Video.|
|<- Pic showing pipe mod with
(The RN4091 is cloud monster when combined with the 601 switche.
Note the thread air-inlets have to be closed with tape.
Also, to make the RN4081 drippable, the inner cart is discarded and a hole is drilled on the mouth of the cap).
You will want to tape over the hole of any 901 atty or the draw will be too light.
Similarly, adapters for 501 and others need tape around the holes of the threads. (The 601 switcher is designed to rely on air flow through the centre of the atty only.)
Alternatively you could used the updated solution below :-
Tighter Sensor Solutions
1. The Aux.Hole
If you don't want to have to tape up the air-holes around the atomiser, I have also found a way to increase the vacuum around the sensor. Simply block the auxilliary hole located on the rim of the sensor with part of a toothpick.
This will ensure the sensor will fire-up on every draw but you must not tape over any of the atty air-inlet holes, otherwise the draw will be too tight.
A permanent solution would be to use some glue to close the aux.hole. But I would advise you to first try it out before doing this.
Personally I don't block the hole, I usually use a 901 atty which is no hassle to tape over the body hole. It's also easier to blow-clean the pipe since more air-flow is allowed through it.
2. Barrel Proofing
It is important that the circular gap between the metal-barrel surrounding the sensor when inside, is air-tight. If the sensor feels 'loose' when you push it in, then you are going to have problems with the sensor not firing.
If this is the case, the solution is to fill the gap with a thin piece of sticky/scotch tape around the sensor or maybe some cling film.
Well it's been a few weeks now, and the mod has been holding up.
My current setup is an Ultrafire 18350 XSL 1200mah and EM LR 901 atomiser with drip tip and tape over the hole.
This gives a lot of vapour and taste with an easy draw and just the right tightness.
The only gripe I have is that it does get a bit gurgly after a while because some liquid collects, not around the switch which is now a good distance away from the atty, but at the mouth of the atty-socket. A a blow in at the battery end while holding a tissue at the mouth of the atty socket will usually clean it out. For a complete clean, you'll need to open it up and a cotton bud into the barrel at the other end,
|Pic of tube all the way back into the body.||306 atty+adapter.|
|You can pry off the
||And yank out the bowl providing the switcher is not attached.||Turns out the wires are connected quite delicately to a circuit board located in the bowl that holds the battery.|
|If the bowl is very tight, then burn a hole in the side and pry it out with a screwdriver.||I had to re-solder and re-enforce the bottom with hot glue.|
|You can't see it
clearly in the pic but covered up are the terminal markings and I
figured out which wire goes where.
S1,S2 - goes to the switcher.
D1,D2 supplies power to the Atty.
|I have also replaced the
wires with the more flexible ribbon type.
|Original circuit board incased in silica gel.|
|Auto-chip from an $8 e-health type e-cig.|
|The e-health chip is less than half the size of the old chip
and has a 5 sec cut-off function.
Re-enforcement is very important if you are always pushing and
pulling the parts because the wires are fragile.
Make sure the wires are bunched enough to fit through the openings.